Door rack for jeep

Freedom Rack / JK

Introducing the Hitchworx Freedom Door Rack. The Rack has been specifically designed for the 2007-2018 JK 2 Door Jeeps.It has the simple function and the rugged styling Jeep owners love. The rack is simple to install and remove.

During our design phase we concentrated on ease of use, strength and weight. Our goal was to make the most convenient way to store your doors without compromising strength and keeping it as light as possible.

All our racks are manufactured out of cold rolled 3/16″ steel and up to 1/8 Side wall 1 1/2 tubing. All joints are fully welded into a 1 piece unit for rigidity, strength, and longevity. The hitch mounts are made from even heavier Tubing 2″ 1/4″ steel That attaches with a simple 5/8 hitch pin.

Don’t worry about the assembly of your new rack. Hitchworx has designed the rack with just two main pieces. The two pieces bolt together with 3 grade 8 carriage bolts and can be installed with a common 3/8 wrench or socket! That’s it! Stop getting caught with your doors off!

• No more COLD Rides home
• No more WET Rides home
• No more BEAT UP Doors from improper storage
• No more THEFT due to leaving your vehicle wide open

FEATURES

• 2 Piece Construction For Easy Assembly
• Universal 2” hitch mount
• Welded 14 GA. 1.5” square tube construction
• Durable, Powder-Coated finish
• Adjustable Door Latches Eliminate Rattling and Ease Installation
• EZ-On Hinge Brackets make installation and aligning doors a breeze
• Locking security bracket with unique keys keeps your doors safe
• Integrated hitch stabilizer keeps your doors from a-rockin’
• Use with or without a spare tire (up to 35” tire)
• Made in the USA *After we recieve your order we will contact you for a few simple measurements. This ensure you get the best fitment possible. The racks do have a custom component. Racks can take up to 3-4 weeks to ship.

Checkout our media section to see videos of the rack in action. CLICK HERE

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Door rack for jeep

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Jeep Wrangler 4 Door Rack

This is a quick door rack to keep your jeep doors safe when you are driving around doorless.
Seemed like a good first instructable. 🙂

Step 1: Parts

4 — 10′ X1″ PVC pipe
6 — 1″ pipe insulators
14 — 1″ PVC elbows
10 — 1″ PVC TEEs

Cut the pipe into 10 — 2′ sections,
8 — 4″ sections,
and the rest into 1′ sections.

Step 2: Put Together the Verticles

Connect two 2′ sections and one 1′ section with elbows.
Do this 5 times.

Step 3: Start the Base

Create two base sections each with a TEE, 1′ section, TEE, 1′ section, TEE.
Before you press them together too hard make sure that all of the TEE sections are pointing down and flat on the ground. This will help to ensure they all point straight up.

Then connect three of the vertical sections into these.

Step 4: Cross Members and Ends

Create two sections each with a 4″ section, TEE, 4″ section, elbow.
Then connect the two sections at the TEE with a 1′ section.
Connect this to the one end of the main base and add a vertical upwards from the elbows.
Repeat this on the opposite end.
And look at the pictures. its easier than reading all this. 🙂

Step 5: Foam It Up!!

Cut the foam pipe insulators to fit every section of 1″ pipe you can.
The insulators are split down the middle and are self adhesive so you can cut them, wrap them around and secure them in place very easily.
The foam insulators are just a bit wider than the elbows and tees so the doors can rest against them without rubbing PVC.

Step 6: Go Doorless!

Take your doors off. The two front doors lean in against the center vertical section. The two back doors go in the outer slots. I put them on their side since the bottoms of the doors are pretty narrow. They made me nervous. 🙂

Looking back I could have made the width of the rack a little less so that the rear doors would have a better span, but I suspect they would still be prone to bumps or wind.

Hope you enjoyed my first Instructable. Have fun building it, and if you don’t have a Wrangler, go buy one. 🙂

Step 7: Addendum

I modified my rack some today. I shortened the distance between posts to 6″ and cut the height down to 19″ this keeps the vertical posts under the mirrors and door handles allowing them to fit in the 6″ space. I also mounted it to a furniture dolly so it can roll around. I glued it all together with PVC glue to help stiffen it as well.I modified my rack some today. I shortened the distance between posts to 6″ and cut the height down to 19″ this keeps the vertical posts under the mirrors and door handles allowing them to fit in the 6″ space. I also mounted it to a furniture dolly so it can roll around. I glued it all together with PVC glue to help stiffen it as well. I modified my rack some today. I shortened the distance between posts to 6″ and cut the height down to 19″ this keeps the vertical posts under the mirrors and door handles allowing them to fit in the 6″ space. I also mounted it to a furniture dolly so it can roll around. I glued it all together with PVC glue to help stiffen it as well. I modified my rack some today. I shortened the distance between posts to 6″ and cut the height down to 19″ this keeps the vertical posts under the mirrors and door handles allowing them to fit in the 6″ space. I also mounted it to a furniture dolly so it can roll around. I glued it all together with PVC glue to help stiffen it as well. I also added a couple of velcro straps just to keep the doors together while rolling around the driveway.

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36 Comments

Hey all, I’m in the process of making this, great design but was wondering, is it rain proof? I want to keep it outside but not sure if the foam/carpet on the dolly will deteriorate over time under rainfall. I don’t have much room to store it.
Also my foam is not self adhesive so it’s just hanging on, anyone know what’s good adhesive to use to have them stay on the PVC?
Thanks a bunch

I would zip tie them to the pvc. That way too, when you chew up the foam taking the doors on and off the rack you can replace the foam easier and cleaner.

Awesome suggestion, thanks!

Getting ready to make my second one. Here is the modified parts, cuts and assembly instructions I will be using:

Step 1: parts list from Home Depot:
3 ea. 10′ X1″ ID PVC pipe
6 ea. 1″ pipe insulators
(pool noodles)
14 ea. 1″ PVC elbows
10 ea. 1″ PVC TEEs

Step 2: cuts
-For verticals and crossmembers:
10 ea. 16 1/2″ sections
7 ea. 12″ sections
-For base:
4 ea. 7″ sections
8 ea. 3″ sections(for TEEs at ends)

Final dimensions without foam, approximately 19″ tall, 15 1/2″ wide and 36″ long.

Step 3: Assemble Verticals:
Connect two 16 1/2″sections and one 1′ section with elbows.
Do this 5 times.

Step 4: Start Base:
Create two base sections each with a TEE, 7″ section, TEE, 7″ section, TEE. Before you press them together too hard make sure that all of the TEE sections are pointing down and flat on the ground. This will help to ensure they all point straight up. Then connect three of the vertical sections into these.

Step 5: Cross Members/Ends:
Create two sections each with a 3″ section, TEE, 3″ section, elbow. Then connect the two sections at the TEE with a 1′ section. Connect this to the one end of the main base and add a vertical upwards from the elbows.

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