C1340 — Open circuit in centre diff lock signal (2 Viewers)
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Marshmallow
Had a flashing check engine light and the two VSC lights come on when I was just pulling out from a camp site earlier this week. I was able to pull into a local Napa auto parts store in the little town of 800 near the provincial park I was camped at and was able to pull a C1340 from the ABS controller.
I ended up just continuing on home, but my gas mileage was horrible so I thought that perhaps the centre diff is locked instead of just a wiring/controller rabbit hole (I’m pretty sure I was getting under 10 mpg towing a 3200ish lb hybrid, but there was also a wicked head wind too, so not completely sure).
I found the factory service manual links and the first thing to check from the diagnostics section is if the differential is free (but no details) — can anyone direct me how to check this first?
I also played with the centre locking button last night and found it does seem to be working (there is a latching sound and a definite wheel hop trying to turn with the diff locked).
I’ve also noticed an increase in idle/low RPM vibration while in gear.
Any help on troubleshooting would be appreciated, otherwise I’ll start working through the diagnostics part of the manual once I’ve established whether the centre diff is locked or not.
Marshmallow
Monday post weekend bump — can anyone help point me in the right direction on testing the centre diff for locked or not?
SICARIO
Does the lights only come on when you have the trailer hooked up? I have a similar problem with mine, due to trailer battery backfeeding.
Marshmallow
Going off memory, I would say that the check engine light was not flashing when I started the truck up to hit the air conditioning Thursday morning at the campsite, but I don’t remember if it was flashing when I backed up to hook up, or if it was flashing when I hopped back in to pull forward off my levelling dunnage (i.e. after the trailer lights were hooked up, I think when I hopped back into pull forward).
It was still flashing Thursday night when I hopped in to try some things out to see if I could diagnose. I’ll double check again today to see whether its still on.
I’ve never had issues with it before, we’ve been towing for about 4 years with it (and it now has ~200 000 miles, we bought it at 135 000 miles).
084runnerltd
10mpg while towing 3200lbs sounds good to me.
Just went on a 650 mile road trip towing my bass boat and averaged about 9.5mpg.
(I am fully armored, with lift, 33″ tires, front and rear bumpers as well as being fully loaded with a few hundred pounds of gear. even if you are stock, I don’t think 10mpg is abnormal.)
Marshmallow
Ok, jacked up the front of the vehicle per page TR-50 in the service manual. When I spun the front wheels, they spun opposite of each other, so I crawled under and tried to spin the front drive shaft, its locked up tight. Put the transfer case in neutral and spun the front drive shaft, both wheels turned the same direction. No change when I locked the centre diff, front drive shaft was locked up.
I’m going to do a fluid change (I suspect its never been done, but I’ll know as soon as I’m done) and see if that makes a difference, then I’ll start testing the electronics — I know its probably mechanical, but I’m holding out hope that its electrical as it looks like there is no spring return, just a flip of the power through the relay/motor to reverse direction on the locking gear.
Marshmallow
Ok, after much testing and head scratching, I’m thinking I might be chasing a ghost with the C-1340 DTC.
I was using the 2004 service manual I found linked here on the site, which was good and bad — good that its so complete (if a little jumbled in how the PDFs are assembled for each section), bad that some of the wiring diagrams are not the same as for a 2001, but generally its the same with some cable connector changes and the diff lock switch is different. I even sprung for a subscription to Alldatadyi today, but found the circuit diagram was missing the diff lock switch wiring that goes into the ABS computer (but the C1340 diagnostic diagram showed it, but not the 4L switch).
I finally found that the locking circuit was working as designed (I chased the voltages through the relay and without the truck running was actually able to hear it click back and forth in the transfer case) which puzzled me why I couldn’t tell with the front wheels jacked up off the ground (or, the second method I tried, front and back wheels on the passenger side off the ground) if it was locked or not. After a little more head scratching, I figured out that if the transmission was in park and the back wheels on the ground, of course the front drive shaft couldn’t turn. Same with the two passenger wheels in the air, in park and unlocked I could rotate one tire and the other would spin opposite but as soon as I locked the diff I couldn’t turn either tire. With that finally figured out, I put the transmission in neutral — now with the diff unlocked, I could spin front or back tires without any impact on the other, with the diff locked, spinning one tire would spin the other the same direction.
With that, today I turned to checking the voltages into the ABS computer to see if they were correct for the diff lock confirmation switch and the 4L switch — both worked fine with the voltages flipping as designed. I pulled the computer out from under the brake pedal and peeled it open to see if there was anything obvious inside that looked amiss — nope, not going to see anything in there with these eyeballs, its quite a complicated device. Plugged it back in and started to wonder whether I could find a local place that does ABS computer repairs as the price of a new unit is heart-stopping.
When I had figured out the other day that the centre diff was in fact not locked, I took it out for a drive to the grocery store pondering why it was not idling properly, and was running rough under 3000 RPM (I had originally thought it was because the centre diff was locked and I was fighting wheel hop) but the more I thought about it the more it felt kinda like a misfire.
Today, I drove down to the parts store and had them plug in their code reader — yep, misfire on cylinder #5, pending misfire on cylinder #8. I had replaced the #5 coil pack about a year and a half ago with a parts store branded unit and its probably given up. I’ve got another one on order (unfortunately Toyota wants over $200 for a Denso, so I’ll install another off brand one and order a spare Denso from Rock Auto). When the parts store guy cleared codes, the stability control lights stayed off.
So next steps — I’m going to replace all the plugs (don’t know when the last time they were replaced, at least 60000 miles ago) and the #5 coil pack and monitor how its going.
I’m now pretty sure I know how all the centre diff controls work inside and out, so all is not lost.
Форум автомобильных диагностов Autodata.ru
не отключается блокировка центрального деференциала,при выключении кнопки управления, блокировка не отключается и лампочка на панели не тухнет. спустился в под авто и при вкл. зажигании включали и отключали кнопку управления,слашно как что-то трещит в блокировке. это механическая неисправность или электроника глючит.
Откуда: г.Южно-Сахалинск
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Откуда: КБР г.Прохладный
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нет не снимал . клиент говорит что у него было несколько раз что кнопку управления деференциала откличаешь а он не отключается потов в процессе езды он отключается т.е индикатор на панели тухнет а сейчас несколько дней индикатор не тухнет вот он и приехал. я ошибки почитал их было 5 четыре обнулились а одна не скидывается С1340. я по мотордате посмотрел там сказанно . блокировка межосевого деференциала или его цепь. и ещё сканер написал замок деференциала положение ON я так понимаю что блокировка не может отключится и уж слишком громко крутит мотор.
Откуда: г.Южно-Сахалинск
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NEW! Сообщение отправлено: 30 апреля 2013 15:41
Сообщение отредактировано: 1 мая 2013 14:22
Если хватит знаний и умений,на механическую часть, можно браться за работу.
После проверки электрики, на подвешенной машине проверяем фактическую блокировку центрального DIFF
карданы не должны вращаться относительно друг друга.
Потом снимаем мотор блокировки,3 или 4 болта(не помню) по ключ на 12 и проверяем его вращение без раздатки.(там есть метка это положение DIFF ON).нормальный ход без заедания и щелчков.
Если есть опыт в разборке раздатки,можно отверткой проверить переключение(подкусывает или нет).
Сборка при DIFF ON мотор отрабатывает, выключаем зажигание.физически блокировка включена.
Проверяем-не работает-снимаем/разбираем раздатку (получаем опыт в разборке/сборке которого не было, и учимся включать раздатку отверткой)))))))))) потом все собираем проверяя состояние и меняя неисправные детали и вуаля она РАБОТАЕТ.
Откуда: КБР г.Прохладный
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спасибо за информацию. гайки крутить не впервой главное знать как и что правильно снимать и ставить назад. я видел находясь в яме один разъём возле хвостовика .с лева по ходу движения авто и один разъём в верхней части раздатки вертикально. который из них относится к мотору блокировки. с устройством раздатки данного авто я не знаком.
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Ну как что снимать/ставить написано выше,если проверки делать на яме карданы от раздатки откидывать надо,что бы проверить физическое включение /выключение.
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C1340 toyota land cruiser 200
Список форумов Авторемонт и автодиагностика. Оборудование для авто диагностики
Код С1340 для Тойоты.
Обсуждается все связанное с диагностикой, диагностическим оборудованием для легковых и грузовых автомобилей.
Код С1340 для Тойоты.
Леня » Ср фев 22, 2006 8:14 pm
ARDIO_RU » Ср фев 22, 2006 11:07 pm
Леня » Чт фев 23, 2006 11:24 am
Да «ё-маё»! Есть варианты что-ли? По-моему для тойот все OBD-коды одинаковы, за маленьким исключением для конкретных моделей. Ну, если очень нужно, то:
Тойота Ландкрузер 100, 2005г.в., V8.
ARDIO_RU » Чт фев 23, 2006 1:07 pm
Возможно Block Diff. Circuit malfunction (неисправность цепи блокировки дифференциала). Но это не точно — как уточню — отпишусь.
BorisS » Чт фев 23, 2006 5:11 pm
2000 Toyota Truck Landcruiser V8-4664cc 4.7L DOHC (2UZ-FE) MFI
P1340 — Igniter Circuit Malfunction №8
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
A Direct Ignition System (DIS) has been adopted. The DIS improves the ignition timing accuracy, reduces high-voltage loss, and
enhances the the overall reliability of the ignition system by eliminating the distributor. The DIS is a cylinder ignition system which
ignites one cylinder with one ignition coil. In the cylinder ignition system, the one spark plug is connected to the end of the secondary
winding. High voltage generated in the secondary winding is applied directly to the spark plug. The spark of the spark plug pass from the
center electrode to the ground electrode.
The ECM determines ignition timing and outputs the ignition signals (IGT) for each cylinder. Based on IGT signals, the power
transistors in the igniter cuts off the current to the primary coil in the ignition coil is supplied to the spark plug that are connected to the
end of the secondary coil. At the same time, the igniter also sends an ignition confirmation signal (IGF) as a fail-safe measure to the
ECM.
DETECTING CONDITIONS
WIRING DIAGRAM
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
HINT:
— If DTC P1340 is displayed, check No.8 ignition coil with igniter circuit.
— If DTC P1305, P1310, P1320, and P1340 are output simultaneously, IGF2 circuit may be open or short.
— Read freeze frame data using TOYOTA hand-held tester or OBD II scan tool. Because freeze frame records the engine conditions
when the malfunction is detected. When troubleshooting it is useful for determining whether the vehicle was running or stopped,
the engine was warmed up or not, the air-fuel ratio was lean or rich, etc. at the time of the malfunction.